Overview
Astana — renamed from Nur-Sultan back to Astana in 2022 — is one of the world's youngest capital cities, having replaced Almaty as Kazakhstan's seat of government in 1997. Built largely from scratch on the windswept northern steppe, it is a showcase of deliberate urban ambition: wide boulevards, monumental public buildings, and a skyline shaped by internationally renowned architects including Norman Foster.
The city divides loosely into the older, Soviet-era left bank of the Ishim River and the dramatically modern right bank, where most of the landmark architecture is concentrated. Temperatures swing from some of Central Asia's coldest winters (regularly below −20 °C) to warm, sunny summers above 30 °C, which shapes when and how visitors experience the city.
Despite its short history as a capital, Astana has grown into a city of well over a million people and hosts a growing calendar of international conferences and cultural events. For travelers, it rewards curiosity about post-Soviet statecraft, Central Asian modernity, and bold urban design — though it is less immediately tourist-oriented than Almaty.
Before You Go
Visas
Kazakhstan has extended visa-free or visa-on-arrival access to citizens of a significant number of countries, but the rules change periodically and vary by nationality. Do not rely on secondhand information. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and verify current requirements with the official Kazakhstan Ministry of Foreign Affairs or your nearest Kazakhstani embassy before booking.
Weather and what to pack
Northern Kazakhstan has a sharply continental climate. Winters (November–March) are long, very cold, and sometimes accompanied by strong winds that make conditions feel even harsher — pack serious thermal layers if visiting then. Summers are short but warm. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons but can bring rain. Sun protection is relevant year-round on clear steppe days.
Health and vaccinations
No specific vaccinations are required for entry, but consulting a travel health clinic before departure is advisable. Tap water quality varies; many visitors prefer bottled water. Travel insurance that covers medical evacuation is strongly recommended, as specialist medical facilities are concentrated in larger cities.
Currency and payments
Kazakhstani Tenge is the only accepted legal tender. ATMs are widely available in Astana, and card payments are accepted at most hotels, larger restaurants, and modern shopping centres. Carry cash for smaller eateries, markets, and taxis.
Getting There
By air
Astana International Airport (IATA: NQZ) is the main gateway, located a short distance from the city centre. It receives direct flights from a number of European, Middle Eastern, Russian, Chinese, and regional Central Asian cities. Airlines including Air Astana, the national carrier, operate many of these routes. Verify current route availability and schedules directly with airlines or your booking platform, as service patterns shift.
By rail
Kazakhstan has a functioning long-distance rail network. Trains connect Astana with Almaty (journey times vary by service; overnight sleeper trains are a popular option), as well as with Russian cities and other Kazakhstani destinations. The main railway station is centrally located. Booking in advance, especially for sleeper berths, is advisable on busy routes.
By road
Long-distance buses and shared taxis (marshrutkas) connect Astana with other Kazakhstani cities, though journey times on major routes can be considerable given the country's scale. Road conditions and driving standards vary; verify locally before planning a road trip.
Getting Around
Astana has a functioning city bus network covering most areas, and a light metro/LRT system that was expanded around the 2017 Expo. Taxis are abundant and affordable by European or North American standards; ride-hailing apps including Yandex Go are widely used and generally safer than flagging unmarked vehicles on the street.
The modern right bank (the Expo and government district area) is spread out, and distances between landmarks are larger than they appear on maps — walking between all major sights in one stretch can be tiring, especially in summer heat or winter cold. Taxis or apps are a practical solution for moving between clusters of attractions.
Renting a car is possible but driving in an unfamiliar city with Cyrillic signage and local traffic norms requires confidence. For most visitors, a combination of city transit and ride-hailing is sufficient.
Things to See & Do
Landmark architecture
- Bayterek Tower — The city's most recognisable symbol, a 97-metre viewing tower representing a mythological tree holding a giant egg. The observation deck offers panoramic views of the government district. Verify current opening hours and admission fees on-site or via the official tourism portal.
- Khan Shatyr Entertainment Centre — A vast transparent tent structure designed by Norman Foster, housing shops, a beach resort, and leisure facilities. Worth seeing as an architectural object regardless of whether you shop inside.
- Palace of Peace and Reconciliation — A glass pyramid also designed by Foster, used for cultural and interfaith events. Interior access may be restricted to guided tours or special events; confirm locally.
- Nur-Astana Mosque — One of Central Asia's largest mosques, open to respectful visitors outside prayer times. Modest dress is required.
- Hazrat Sultan Mosque — Another large mosque worth visiting for its scale and craftsmanship.
Museums and culture
- National Museum of Kazakhstan — A large modern museum covering Kazakhstani history, archaeology, and ethnography from ancient steppe cultures to independence. A good orientation to the country's broader story.
- The Museum of the First President — Documents the career of Nursultan Nazarbayev and the building of the modern state; interesting as a piece of political history regardless of one's views.
- Astana Opera — A relatively new opera and ballet house with a regular performance schedule. Check the programme and book tickets in advance for popular productions.
Day experiences
- Walking the central boulevard (Nurzhol Boulevard) between major landmarks gives a good sense of the planned cityscape.
- The 2017 Expo site (now rebranded as the EXPO complex) houses technology exhibitions and event spaces; verify what is currently open.
- In warmer months, the Ishim riverbanks offer pleasant walking and cycling.
Food & Drink
Kazakh cuisine
Traditional Kazakh food is hearty and meat-centred, reflecting a nomadic pastoral heritage. Key dishes to try include beshbarmak (slow-cooked meat — often lamb or beef — served over wide flat noodles with broth), manty (large steamed dumplings filled with meat and onion), samsa (baked pastries with meat or pumpkin filling), and kuurdak (fried organ meats). Kumis (fermented mare's milk) and shubat (fermented camel's milk) are traditional drinks worth trying if you encounter them, though not universally available in city restaurants.
The dining scene
Astana has a wide range of restaurants beyond traditional Kazakh food, including Russian, Georgian, Uzbek, Italian, Japanese, and international fare — reflecting both the diplomatic population and the city's aspirational cosmopolitanism. The right bank around the major malls and the old town centre both have clusters of restaurants and cafés. Prices vary considerably by venue; budget options exist alongside higher-end establishments.
Practical notes
- Alcohol is available in most restaurants and many shops, but Kazakhstan is a predominantly Muslim country and public drunkenness is frowned upon.
- Vegetarian and vegan options are available at international restaurants but can be limited in more traditional Kazakh establishments — check menus in advance if this matters to you.
- Tipping is not a rigid custom but rounding up or leaving 5–10% at sit-down restaurants is appreciated.
Shopping
Astana's main shopping options are its large modern malls — Khan Shatyr and Mega Astana among the most prominent — which stock international and local brands. For souvenirs and handicrafts, look for items such as felt goods (traditional Kazakh craft), carved wooden objects, jewellery with traditional motifs, and locally produced foodstuffs like dried fruits and sweets. The central bazaar areas offer a less polished but more authentic browsing experience.
Be cautious of antiques and items made from protected wildlife or plant materials, as export of certain objects can be legally problematic. When in doubt, ask the seller for documentation or skip the purchase.
Practical Information
Emergency numbers
Verify local emergency numbers before you travel; do not rely solely on this guide. As a general reference, Kazakhstan uses 102 for police, 103 for ambulance, and 101 for fire services, but confirm these are current for Astana before your trip.
Connectivity
SIM cards with data are available at the airport and in mobile phone shops throughout the city from major operators such as Beeline Kazakhstan, Kcell, and Tele2 Kazakhstan. Internet connectivity in hotels, cafés, and malls is generally reliable.
Language
Kazakh is the state language; Russian remains widely used in business and daily life in Astana. English is spoken in some hotels, upscale restaurants, and by younger professionals, but should not be assumed. A translation app supporting Kazakh and Russian is a practical travel tool.
Money and banking
Exchange offices (obmen valyuty) are common and rates are generally competitive; compare a few before exchanging large amounts. Major bank ATMs in malls and hotels are the most reliable for international cards.
Electricity
Kazakhstan uses 220 V / 50 Hz with Type C and F plugs (the standard European round-pin style). Visitors from the UK, USA, and some other countries will need adapters.
Safety
Astana is generally considered one of the safer capital cities in Central Asia for visitors. Petty crime such as pickpocketing exists, as in any large city, but violent crime against tourists is uncommon. Standard urban precautions apply: keep valuables secure, be aware of surroundings in crowded areas, and avoid displaying expensive items unnecessarily.
Use licensed or app-based taxis rather than accepting rides from unmarked vehicles. Political demonstrations, while not common, do occur; it is advisable to avoid any gatherings that become contentious and to follow local news if you are visiting during a period of political sensitivity.
Winter weather is a genuine safety consideration. Frostbite and hypothermia are real risks if visitors are underprepared for −20 °C or colder temperatures combined with wind. Dress in proper thermal layers, cover extremities, and limit time outdoors in extreme cold.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Kazakhstan is a secular state with a predominantly Muslim population and significant Russian-speaking and other ethnic minority communities — a legacy of Soviet-era migration. This blend shapes daily life in Astana, where you will encounter mosques alongside Orthodox churches and a generally tolerant, diverse urban culture.
Hospitality is deeply valued in Kazakh culture. If invited to a home or offered tea, accepting graciously is appreciated. Removing shoes when entering a home is customary. Older generations in particular expect respectful, measured behaviour from guests.
When visiting mosques or other religious sites, dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for both men and women; women should carry a headscarf. Photography inside religious buildings may be restricted — ask before shooting.
Kazakhstan's relationship with its Soviet past and its current political system is nuanced. Avoid uninvited political commentary in conversations with locals, and be aware that public criticism of the government or its symbols may attract unwanted attention. Photographing military installations, government buildings, and certain infrastructure can be prohibited — follow any posted restrictions and err on the side of caution.