Overview
Covasna County (Județul Covasna), abbreviated CV on Romanian license plates and sometimes referred to informally by locals, sits in the central-eastern Carpathians of Transylvania. It is one of Romania's smaller counties by area, yet it packs in a remarkable range of landscapes — volcanic crater lakes, densely forested mountain ridges, river valleys, and thermal mineral-spring towns.
The county is home to one of Romania's most distinctive minority cultures: the Szeklers (Székely), an ethnic Hungarian community with deep roots in the region. This gives Covasna a dual character — Romanian state institutions alongside Hungarian-language signage, traditions, crafts, and cuisine exist side by side, making it one of the more culturally layered parts of the country.
Sfântu Gheorghe (Sepsiszentgyörgy in Hungarian) is the county seat and the main urban hub, offering museums, a theatre, and a base for exploring the surrounding countryside. The spa town of Covasna and the historic town of Târgu Secuiesc are also significant stops.
Because the county is off the main international tourist circuit, it rewards travelers who seek authentic, uncrowded experiences. Infrastructure is functional rather than luxurious, and English is less common here than in Bucharest or Brașov, so a few words of Romanian or Hungarian go a long way.
Before You Go
Visas and Entry
Romania is an EU member state and joined the Schengen Area (for air and sea travel) in March 2024. Entry rules vary by nationality. For accurate, up-to-date requirements, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult Romania's official immigration authority before booking.
Health
No special vaccinations are required for most visitors, but routine immunizations should be up to date. Tick-borne encephalitis is present in forested areas — discuss prophylaxis with your doctor if you plan extended hiking. EU residents should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). All other travelers should arrange comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
What to Pack
- Layered clothing: mountain weather changes rapidly even in summer
- Sturdy walking shoes or hiking boots
- Cash in RON — card acceptance outside Sfântu Gheorghe can be limited
- Basic Romanian or Hungarian phrasebook or translation app
- Insect repellent for forested trails
Getting There
By Air
Covasna County has no commercial airport. The nearest practical airports are Brașov-Ghimbav International Airport (opened 2023; verify current routes before booking) and Henri Coandă International Airport in Bucharest (OTP), which has the widest range of international connections. Cluj-Napoca International Airport (CLJ) is another option for travelers coming from western Romania or via hub connections.
By Train
CFR Călători (Romanian Railways) connects Sfântu Gheorghe to Brașov with a relatively straightforward service; from Brașov onward connections to Bucharest and other major cities are available. Journey times and schedules vary — verify current timetables at cfrcalatori.ro before travel.
By Road
The county is accessible via national roads from Brașov (approximately 30–40 km west of Sfântu Gheorghe) and from Miercurea Ciuc to the north. There is no motorway serving Covasna directly. Driving is the most flexible way to explore the county's rural areas and mountain passes.
By Bus
Regional and intercity coaches connect Sfântu Gheorghe with Brașov, Bucharest, and other Transylvanian cities. Check local operators and aggregator sites for current schedules, as services change seasonally.
Getting Around
A rental car is strongly recommended for exploring Covasna County. Public transport within the county is limited, and many of the most rewarding landscapes — including Sfânta Ana Lake and the mountain passes — are difficult to reach without private transport.
Local buses link the main towns (Sfântu Gheorghe, Covasna, Târgu Secuiesc, Bixad, Întorsura Buzăului), but services are infrequent and schedules may not align well with tourist priorities. Verify timetables locally on arrival.
Taxis and ride-hailing apps (Bolt operates in some Romanian cities — verify availability in Sfântu Gheorghe) can cover shorter urban trips. For longer excursions, arrange drivers through your accommodation or a local travel agency.
Cycling is increasingly popular on quieter valley roads, though mountain terrain requires fitness and appropriate bikes. Ask locally about trail conditions before setting out.
Things to See & Do
Sfânta Ana (Saint Anne) Crater Lake
One of Romania's most iconic natural sites, this volcanic crater lake sits at roughly 950 m altitude inside an extinct caldera. The surrounding beech forest and the stillness of the lake make it a compelling half-day excursion. There is a short walking loop around the perimeter. Check road conditions and seasonal access before visiting — the access road can be closed in winter.
Mohoș Peat Bog
Adjacent to Sfânta Ana, this protected peat bog (Tinovul Mohoș) is a rare ecosystem with carnivorous plants and distinctive vegetation. Access is managed to protect the habitat; a designated boardwalk path exists. Verify access conditions locally.
Sfântu Gheorghe (City)
- Székely National Museum (Muzeul Național Secuiesc): One of the oldest and most important museums in Transylvania, with collections covering Szekler history, folk art, archaeology, and natural science. Confirm current opening hours and admission fees on-site or via the museum's official channels.
- The city centre has a pedestrianised area with cafés and local shops worth a stroll.
Spa Town of Covasna
The town of Covasna is known for its mineral-rich carbonated springs (mofette baths — CO₂ emanations) and has been a therapeutic spa destination for over a century. Several sanatoriums and wellness facilities operate here, primarily catering to cardiac and respiratory treatments. Visitors can experience mofette treatments; verify which facilities accept walk-in visitors and at what cost.
Târgu Secuiesc (Kézdivásárhely)
A well-preserved market town with a compact historic centre, guild houses, and a vibrant Szekler folk craft tradition. The Incze László Museum covers local history and ethnography. The town is particularly animated during traditional fairs and festivals.
Hiking and Nature
The Bodoc Mountains, Baraolt Mountains, and Nemira Mountains all offer hiking. Trails are generally marked but may not be maintained to Western European standards — carry a map, sufficient water, and inform someone of your route. The area around Bixad and Bálványos (thermal baths and ruins of a medieval fortress) is also worth exploring.
Food & Drink
Covasna's culinary scene reflects its dual Romanian-Hungarian heritage. Expect hearty, meat-forward dishes typical of both Transylvanian and Szekler cooking.
Local specialties to try:
- Kürtőskalács (chimney cake) — a sweet rolled pastry associated with Szekler culture, often sold at fairs and markets
- Gulyás (goulash) and pörkölt — Hungarian-style stews, common in local restaurants
- Smoked meats and sausages, prepared in traditional Szekler fashion
- Mămăligă — Romanian polenta, often served alongside stews or with cheese and sour cream
- Freshwater trout from mountain streams
Mineral water from local springs is widely available and often consumed at source by locals. Local fruit spirits (pálinka) and plum brandy (țuică) are common social drinks — offered freely in rural settings as a gesture of hospitality.
Restaurant density is highest in Sfântu Gheorghe. In smaller towns and villages, options may be limited to a single local eatery or pension dining room. Lunch is typically the main meal of the day. Reservations are rarely necessary except for larger groups during peak summer weekends.
Practical Information
Money
The Romanian Leu (RON) is the only accepted currency. ATMs are available in Sfântu Gheorghe and the larger towns; carry sufficient cash when venturing into rural areas. Card terminals exist in urban establishments but should not be relied upon everywhere.
Connectivity
Mobile data (4G) works well in towns and main roads; coverage thins considerably in mountain areas. Purchase a local SIM card in Sfântu Gheorghe for cost-effective data if your home plan is expensive in Romania. Wi-Fi is available in most hotels and many cafés.
Emergency Numbers
- General emergency: 112 (police, ambulance, fire — EU-wide number)
- Verify any other specialist numbers locally on arrival
Useful Romanian Phrases
- Bună ziua — Good day
- Mulțumesc — Thank you
- Unde este...? — Where is...?
- Nu vorbesc română — I don't speak Romanian
Hungarian phrases are equally useful in this county. A translation app with offline capability is a practical travel companion here.
Safety
Covasna County is generally safe for travelers. Petty crime rates are low by European standards. Standard urban precautions (watching belongings in crowded areas, securing valuables) apply in Sfântu Gheorghe.
Outdoor risks are more relevant than urban ones. Bears and wolves inhabit the forests — a real consideration for hikers. Make noise on trails, do not approach wildlife, and ask locally about recent animal activity in the area you plan to hike. The Carpathians have a healthy large predator population; this is not sensationalism but a practical reality.
Mountain weather can deteriorate quickly. Lightning storms are common in summer afternoons at higher elevations. Start hikes early and descend before midday if thunderstorms are forecast.
Roads in the county vary significantly in quality. Mountain roads may be narrow, unsurfaced in sections, and poorly lit. Drive carefully, especially at night when livestock and deer on roads pose a hazard. Always check road conditions in winter before driving mountain passes.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Understanding the Szekler (Székely) identity is central to appreciating Covasna County. The Szeklers are an ethnic Hungarian community who have inhabited this part of Transylvania for centuries. They have a strong sense of distinct cultural identity, expressed through their folk art (the distinctive blue-and-white pottery, carved wooden gates), traditions, festivals, and language. Travelers should approach this with genuine curiosity and respect rather than treating it as a curiosity or conflating it simplistically with broader Romanian or Hungarian national narratives.
The carved wooden gate (székely kapu) is one of the most recognizable symbols of Szekler culture — elaborate, symbolic, and still found at the entrances to homes and villages. Villages in the county often display these prominently.
Religion plays a role in community life; various Protestant denominations (Calvinist, Unitarian) are historically important alongside the Romanian Orthodox tradition. Religious sites are places of active worship — dress modestly when visiting.
Local festivals and fairs (sokadalom) are excellent windows into living culture. Timing a visit to coincide with one of these events — particularly around harvest season or traditional holidays — is worthwhile. Ask locally or check municipal websites for current event calendars.
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