Overview
Portage Glacier and the small port town of Whittier sit at the head of Passage Canal, roughly 60 miles southeast of Anchorage in the Chugach National Forest. Together they form one of southcentral Alaska's most accessible and visually striking destinations, drawing visitors who want glacier scenery, wildlife, and a taste of remote coastal Alaska without a bush-plane journey.
Whittier itself is one of Alaska's more unusual communities. Most of its year-round residents — a population that typically numbers well under 300 — live in a single large building, Begich Towers, a former Army structure that also houses a small grocery, a post office, and other services. The town's compressed, utilitarian character is part of its character.
Portage Glacier, part of the larger Chugach ice field system, has retreated significantly since the mid-20th century. It is still an impressive sight, and the best close-up views are obtained from the MV Ptarmigan tour boat operated by Gray Line (verify current schedules and operators locally), which navigates Portage Lake among floating icebergs. The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center on the lake shore provides context about glaciology and local ecology.
The surrounding landscape — steep forested slopes, hanging glaciers, and the cold waters of Passage Canal — makes the area compelling for hiking, kayaking, and wildlife observation even on days when the glacier itself is obscured by cloud.
Before You Go
Visas and Entry
Whittier and Portage Glacier are in the United States. For visa and entry requirements, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and the official US Customs and Border Protection website, as rules vary by nationality.
Weather and Conditions
This part of southcentral Alaska receives very high annual precipitation — Whittier is among the wettest places in the country. Rain, low cloud, and fog are common even in summer. Pack waterproof layers regardless of the season. Temperatures in summer typically range from the low 40s to the low 60s Fahrenheit; winters are cold, snowy, and frequently windy.
Crowds and Booking
- Peak season is mid-June through August. Glacier boat tours can sell out; book in advance.
- The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel has scheduled one-way alternating traffic. Check the current schedule with the Alaska Department of Transportation before you drive, as delays of up to an hour are possible.
- If you plan to kayak in Passage Canal, go with a licensed guide or verify conditions locally; tidal currents and boat traffic require experience.
What to Bring
- Waterproof jacket and trousers
- Warm mid-layers even in July
- Binoculars for wildlife
- Cash — services in Whittier are limited and card readers can be unreliable
Getting There
From Anchorage by Road and Tunnel
The primary route is the Seward Highway south from Anchorage, turning onto the Portage Glacier Highway and then through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — a combined rail-and-vehicle tunnel, roughly 2.5 miles long, that is the only road connection to Whittier. Tunnel access is controlled; verify current hours and tolls with the Alaska Department of Transportation before traveling.
By Train
The Alaska Railroad operates the Glacier Discovery train between Anchorage and Whittier seasonally, with stops at Portage. This is a scenic and practical option that avoids tunnel scheduling concerns. Check the Alaska Railroad website for current schedules and fares.
By Ferry
The Alaska Marine Highway System connects Whittier to Valdez, Cordova, and other southcentral and southeast Alaska communities. Whittier serves as a ferry terminal, making it a logical start or end point for longer coastal itineraries. Verify current sailings on the AMHS website.
By Air
Whittier has no commercial air service. The nearest commercial airport is Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC).
Getting Around
Whittier is a very small town and most points of interest — the small boat harbor, ferry terminal, a handful of restaurants, and Begich Towers — are walkable from one another. The town is compact enough that a car is not needed once you arrive.
To reach the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center at Portage Lake, you will need a vehicle or a tour shuttle, as it is located several miles up the Portage Glacier Highway from the tunnel entrance. There is no scheduled local bus service between Whittier and the visitor center.
Glacier and wildlife boat tours depart from Whittier's small boat harbor. Kayak rentals and guided paddling tours are also available from local outfitters — verify current operators locally, as small businesses in remote Alaskan communities change seasonally.
Things to See & Do
Portage Lake Glacier Cruise
The boat tour on Portage Lake is the signature experience, bringing passengers within close range of the glacier face and floating ice. Tours are seasonal; verify operators, pricing, and departure times locally or through official booking channels before arrival.
Begich, Boggs Visitor Center
Operated by the US Forest Service, this center on the shore of Portage Lake has exhibits on glaciology, local wildlife, and the cultural history of the region. Admission fees and hours should be confirmed on the US Forest Service website or on-site.
Hiking
- Byron Glacier Trail: A short, relatively flat trail (roughly 1 mile each way) leads toward Byron Glacier, where visitors can often walk onto remnant snow and ice fields in summer. No special equipment is required for the trail itself, though ice travel requires appropriate gear and experience.
- Portage Lake area trails: Several interpretive trails near the visitor center provide views of the lake and surrounding peaks.
Wildlife Viewing
Passage Canal and the surrounding waters host Steller sea lions, harbor seals, sea otters, Dall's porpoise, and orca. Bald eagles are common. Black bears are occasionally seen in the area; practice standard bear awareness.
Kayaking and Paddleboarding
Passage Canal offers dramatic scenery for paddlers. Tidal conditions, boat traffic from the ferry terminal, and cold water temperatures make this suitable for experienced paddlers or those with a qualified guide.
Photography
The combination of hanging glaciers, waterfalls, and still-water reflections in the canal makes this a productive destination for landscape photography, particularly on calm overcast days when light is even.
Food & Drink
Whittier's food and drink options are limited by its size. A small number of restaurants and a café operate seasonally near the harbor, serving seafood, burgers, pizza, and standard American fare. Expect options to vary by season — some businesses operate only during the summer tourist months.
The town has a small grocery for basics. Visitors planning longer stays or with dietary restrictions should bring supplies from Anchorage, where shopping options are comprehensive.
Alcohol is available in Whittier. There is no brewery or fine-dining establishment in town; this is a place for simple, casual meals between outdoor activities.
Practical Information
Medical and Emergency Services
Whittier has very limited medical facilities. The nearest hospitals and full emergency services are in Anchorage. For emergencies, dial 911. For non-emergency police matters in Whittier, contact the Whittier Police Department — verify the current non-emergency number locally.
Connectivity
Cell coverage in Whittier is available but can be spotty in surrounding valleys and on the water. Do not rely on mobile navigation or real-time data in the backcountry. Download offline maps before leaving Anchorage.
Tunnel Timing
Missing your tunnel slot can add a significant wait to your return journey. Build extra time into your itinerary and check the current tunnel schedule at the Alaska DOT website before departure.
Fuel
Fuel is available in Whittier but is typically more expensive than in Anchorage. Top up before leaving the city.
Permits
No permit is required for day hiking on established trails near Portage. If you plan backcountry travel in Chugach National Forest, check with the US Forest Service for any current requirements.
Safety
Cold water is the primary hazard in this area. Water temperatures in Passage Canal and Portage Lake are dangerously low year-round. Anyone paddling or boating should wear a dry suit or immersion suit and a personal flotation device, and should travel with others.
Glacier travel beyond the Byron Glacier trail or the boat tour requires crevasse-rescue training, appropriate gear, and ideally a qualified guide. Do not walk onto active glaciers without proper preparation.
Bear awareness is standard practice in all Alaskan outdoor settings. Carry bear spray, make noise on trails, and store food securely. Black bears are the primary species in this area.
Weather can change rapidly. Fog and low cloud regularly reduce visibility on the water. Monitor forecasts through the National Weather Service and inform someone of your itinerary if venturing beyond the main visitor areas.